Some of you will know that this saying has come from one of the big surf companies but I'm not using it cause I want to support their marketing concept. I think its a great easy way to get you thinking and talking about the important reasons behind your love of being out in the waves.
I surf because... I find it the simplest and easiest place in the world to just be myself. I dont have to be anything or anyone for any other person. I can do what i like, ride waves how i want and not care what anyone thinks or does.The act of riding waves is a real buzz but its become secondary to finding time on my own away from the daily grind of life.
Most surfers will know just how good they feel after a surf, good or bad! The energy we get from being in the ocean is the addictive part of this whole experience. We dont get addicted to getting smashed, or paddling for an hour for little result, that just hurts. There is more to this than meets the eye. More on this some other time.
Now i wish this was the case with every surf but unfortunately its not. Other peoples actions and attitudes can always get in the way or effect the'vibe' out in the water. I myself can be carrying issues that I need to sort out and going surfing can be a great way to clear the head too.
I hope you will join in the conversation and get this blog going and i hope it will evolve into a really fun, educating and sounding board for all your surfing needs.
No comments:
Post a Comment